Jubilantes, jubilantes, ju! bi! lan! tes! I have arrived in La Rioja after many adventures and much merriment. The camino is quite a lot of fun, most especially if you are doing it the way I´m going, foregoing the dreaded albergues and staying in 3 or 4 star hotels and Paradores. Certain things are not negotiable - bathtubs, soap, lots of hot water, clean clothes, etc. Despite the fact that almost every town in Catalunya had WIFI easily obtainable, as my friend Nel is found of saying, Catalunya is not Spain. Internet has been spotty since I left, and even very good hotels do not necessarily have access. Oh well. Even if they did, I really don´t have a lot of time at the end of the day. After I´ve checked in, washed up, done a bit of laundry, and gone out for dinner, typically I´ll meet someone at the bar or at the restaurant, and we'll talk late into the night. The Spanish pilgrims are pretty intense, and we often get into the most interesting conversations. Here is an example:
"Well, don´t tell me you actually believe the bones of St. James are buried in Santiago?" asks Jose.
"No, of course not. Only fools or idiots would believe that."
"Well, then we agree", he says, taking a long drink of the silken smooth Sherry we are drinking. It is about 10C outside, and Jose assures me this is very cold. I find it a perfect temperature for cycling.
"But then, what is your motivation for doing the Camino?" I ask.
"Oh, it has nothing to do with religion. It´s entirely for my health," he says, lighting up his 3rd cigarette since we´ve started talking.
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